The Morcom's Grand Adventure.: Kakadu National Park

Kakadu National Park

260km from Darwin lies Jabiru on the edge of Arnhem land and our base for exploring Kakadu National Park. On the way along the Arnhem Highway you pass several wetlands, a few iconic rivers like the Adelaide, Mary and South Alligator not mentioning a few famous pubs like the Humpty Doo Hotel and the Corroboree Tavern where shoes and shirts are required but teeth are optional. A great freebee on the way was the Window to the Wetlands centre out of Darwin where the annual cycle of the wetlands is well explained with great interactive activities for the kids.

Before long we were booking into the Kakadu Lodge Caravan Park, had a swim and heading off to Urbirr for evening talks and the sunset. The Urbirr Rock Art gallery was amazing to see and was well complemented with the talks given by the Ranger at both the main art gallery and the lookout over the wetlands. The sunset was a bit of a downer as there was a lot of smoke in the air but the view taking in the Nadab floodplain, East Alligator River and the Arnhem land escarpment cannot be done justice with words. Put it on your bucket list.

Bad Spirit man at Urbirr Gallery

Hunting scene from Urbirr.

Urbirr Lookout over Nadab Floodplain.

Early the next morning we were out and about to Nourlangie, an escarpment area with art galleries about 40km to the south. As well as completing the 3km loop in rising heat we attended ranger talks on ‘Family and Law the Aboriginal way’ and ‘Changes through time in Kakadu’. Both talks were fantastic with a real insight into how the Aboriginal culture worked before European intervention as well as law and punishment and family traditions. Many people still live traditionally today in Arnhem land and many laws still apply. Obviously this way of life is harder to enforce in larger towns with greater distractions, but to learn about the law is amazing and makes one think that European involvement ruined more than we already thought. The Art was fantastic, as were the sites of significance knowing that people have been coming to places like the shelter for maybe 50,000 years.

The thin white man in the top right corner is Namagon the lightning man.
Nourlangie Gallery

Nourlangie Lookout.

Ranger talk at Nourlangie Overhang.

Aboriginal Dilly bag made from string made from reeds. Samples like these have been found in diggings dated at 15000 years old. Now that's technology!

Kurt enjoying Anbangbang Billabong, teeming with birdlife.

Later in the day we were off to the East Alligator River and the famous ‘Cahill’s Crossing' for a spot of fishing. As the tide rises bait is pushed up the river to the crossing followed by bigger fish and much bigger things that want to eat the bigger fish. Fisherman almost queue up to catch a big barra and the tourists gather to watch the free croc show and the action for an hour or so. A few fish were caught as Jim donated a packet of soft plastics to the cause. Later Jim did actually land a barra but being about 50cm and undersize it was returned. With a bit of action taking place he later hooked a fish estimated by bystanders at 80cm but the fish won that battle. Keen to go again we returned on Sunday but 40cm less tide means less action. The party was still on but everyone had stopped dancing. Advice for future fishing visitors, visit on the right tides.

Fishing at Cahill's Crossing.

The only barra landed. Unfortunately a setting on the camera had been moved which caused this blurred photo. The only blimp in hundreds of photos taken by Chrissy. Still, that is Jim and he's holding a fish.

On Sunday we went on a Cultural Cruise along the East Alligator River with Neville, an Arnhem Land Local. After spotting more big crocs than we all thought were there, we cruised further up river whilst hearing stories of local traditions and ways. Some of the crocs have had tracking devices fitted, and have travelled as far away as Darwin and Papua New Guinea, and returned home again... The highlight was stopping off and being allowed to walk on Arnhem Land (with permission from the Elders). Neville demonstrated some fiercely accurate spear throwing which further inspired Will (who has been sharpening sticks for weeks), and shared with us some real red ochre paint. It felt great to soak up the beautiful surroundings and think about the rich culture and history of the people of Arnhem Land.

One of the East Alligator locals with a tracking device.

Guests in Arnhem Land.

East Alligator River with Arnhem Land to the left and Kakadu to the right.

Our Guide, Neville showing us the finer points of spears.

Will checking out the REAL ochre paint.

Neville our guide.

Sadly Jim was not in favour of the Fishing Spirits, and the elusive Barra continue to swim in the East Alligator River. We did leave our mark here however, with Kurt and Will’s rock art paintings high enough to survive until a very high tide. Pasta for dinner.....

Tomorrow we head south to Gunlom in the Mary River Region of Kakadu, where we can safely explore the rockholes, pools and waterfalls (NO CROCS).

The pool and bar at the Kakadu lodge Jabiru, popular with all of us.

Our final day in Kakadu saw us visit Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre which showcased the culture of the indigenous people in the region. It also had some fantastic displays and recollections by local elders on their lives and how their people have come to terms with European influences .This was a great place to visit and we all learned so much. We left with a strong sense that these people are desperate for us to understand their rich history and laws, and for us to really understand them as people. They certainly make a huge effort in the Northern Territory for this process to begin.

After dropping the van off at the Mary River Roadhouse we were on the 40km trek to Gunlom or Waterfall Creek. After driving the 35km unsealed road we were in a carpark looking at a huge escarpment with a waterfall trickling down it. At Gunlom you have a choice. Swim in the plunge pool at he bottom which is very nice or scale the escarpment and swim in the pools at the top and take in the view, or both. We took the tough option. The trek was hot, steep, and very difficult, but we were rewarded by a series of beautiful pools at the top and an amazing view. We soaked up the top pools and the view for a while before trekking down to the plunge pool at the bottom. As we have often learnt on this trip, effort is rewarded and that is for us where the special memories are made.